The Intricate and Practical Inrō and Netsuke
Traditional Japanese clothing, like the kimono and kosode, did not have any pockets for personal belongings. So a sagemono, or hanging object attached to the obi (sash) of traditional Japanese clothing, was a useful way to carry things like money, pipes, tobacco, or a writing brush and ink.
Sketch of a netsuke and an inro box on traditional Japanese garments. | Rama
An inrō case, popular for holding small objects, and a netsuke were a useful and convenient way to carry things for many Japanese.
Japanese Netsuke figure.
Netsuke (根付) –this was invented in the 17th century to serve as a fastener that secured the beautifully crafted boxes such as an inrō. Netsuke (ne means “root” and tsuke means “to attach”) are miniature sculptures that prevent the weight of the inrō from slipping from the obi. Traditionally, a cord was passed around the back of the sash and the netsuke was hooked over the edge, securing the carrying case. The tiny sculptures were usually made from wood or ivory but some are made from nuts. The materials used and the designs made were smoothed out so as not to catch on the kimono. The miniature pieces had a variety of subjects crafted with exquisite detail such as those from Japanese myths and legends.
Inrō (印籠, seal-basket), was in use towards the end of the 16th century and was an essential part of men’s fashion to carry small personal items. It was thought to be a great way to keep the contents such as tobacco and various herbs for medicines sealed and fresh.
Inro with Design of Two Hawks on Tasseled Perches. Edo period, 19th century.
The 18th century saw the inrō as a decorative accessory that was commissioned by the merchant class, samurai, provincial rulers, and anyone who could afford them. They are usually made from leather paper or wood decorated with lacquer.
Inrō are made of several separate sections stacked on top of each other and bound together by a loop or a cord that goes through a channel from each side from the bottom. The sections are sealed when the cord is tightened by pulling it through a bead called an ojime and prevented from falling off the cord by the netsuke at the end. The cord passes behind an obi, allowing the inrō to hang loosely from the waist.
It goes to show that practicality and attention to detail make the traditional Japanese clothing ensemble an ideal way to dress even in today’s modern times.